We left Hobart, travelled north, and spent the next few days
walking in Lake St
Clair- Cradle Mountain National Park.
It's hard to describe the
differences
between the various walks. The overwhelming impression was of pathways
that
wound between towering eucalyptus trees reaching for the sky. Holes in
the
canopy were formed by old trees crashing to the ground, usually due to
fire damage.
The old trees and the growing trees were covered with a variety of
beautiful
ferns and mosses. By looking through a
metal pipe we were invited to measure the height of a eucalyptus tree regnans
and correctly figured out that it was 79 meters high. These trees
are the
highest flowering trees in the world and only start flowering after
they are
well over 150 years old! (Redwoods are
taller but they are pines and don't have flowers.)
The pathways wound alongside and over rivers
and rivulets at Nelson Falls, and in Mount Fields National Park.
We went to see "The Wall in the
Wilderness" by Greg Duncan. It is a 100 metre long wooden panel with
sculpted figures carved into it depicting the early stages of British
colonization of Tasmania, the backbreaking projects of building
infrastructure
and the heavy price the men and women paid. One heartbreaking panel
showed a
woman
and her son laying a flower by a grave. Their
dog lies inconsolable as his head rests
on his paws and even the tired horse tied to their wagon, has his eyes
closed
and is so sad. The sculpturing was impeccable and since it is a work
still in
progress – spanning 10 years, parts of it are still not started and
other parts
not completed. www.thewalltasmania.com
We had our third seder this year, this time with the Segolis at Lake St
Clair. Kneidlach, haroset, maror and matzo with
all of us reading
the Haggadah. Quite an achievement at the end of the world! (see pictures here)
When we moved to Cradle Mountain we walked
around Lake Dove. We were at 1000m and had to dress really warmly. I
wore three
long sleeved shirts, two pairs of trousers, a fleece, balaclava, scarf,
and
wind breaker against the extreme cold
and biting wind… and was still freezing cold in exposed areas! But once in the forest the wind died down and
it was a delightful 3 hour walk around the lake.
It
must be mentioned how impressive Maayan
and Lotem were. Although cold and hardly managing to walk against the
wind they
never complained. Zoe wrapped up in a baby backpack and plastic
raincoat was as
cozy as in a cocoon.
That evening, after an afternoon snooze we went
for a night tour to spot animals. We saw wombats, Bennett's wallabies,
and
pademelons. We then stopped at the
Tasmanian Devil and quoll station and learnt about these strange
animals. Both
the Tasmanian Devils and their relative quolls kill their prey by
biting into
the back of the neck at the base of the spine – unusual as other
predators tear
out the throat of their prey. The
Tasmanian devils are voracious eaters and after seeing two animals tear
apart a piece
of animal meat we believe them! I will
spare you a description of how the
Devils
eat through their prey from bottom up. The Devils are an endangered
species and their situation is being worsened by a specific and
contagious fatal cancer that is spreading throughout the Devils in
Tasmania.
We had seen some animals in the wild - like this wombat
- but in the morning we were delighted by a visit by pademelons
on the
veranda of our hut.
In the afternoon we had to repack in preparation for looking
after the kids for three days while Moran and Mikhal went hiking,
and we continued northwards to the Latrobe
area.